An automatic stainless steel and fourteen carat yellow gold Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust reference 1625 model. This very interesting and striking model is a close relative of the classic Datejust from this period, apart from the addition of the engine turned, bi-directional rotating, solid gold bezel. The original name for this reference when launched in 1956 under the reference 6309 was the 'Turn-O-Graph'. However, as has always been the masterful approach by Rolex in brand association, post World War Two Rolex began to market this model the United States Air Force (U.S.A.F) display team; The Thunderbirds. The original examples were branded with the team Thunderbird logo on the dial, and case back engravings. These were not made for production, but limited to the pilots. The watch was then marketed and promoted to the public via this brand collaboration. Tapping into that same magic that saw the Top Gun movies break box office records.
The Thunderbird, a fire breathing mythical creature worshiped as a god by many American indigenous cultures, symbolizes strength and power and in some interpretations, creates the sound of thunder by flapping its wings. It is therefore fitting that the United States Air Force air demonstration team adopted the moniker ‘Thunderbirds’, as an obvious nod to their form of aerial acrobatics and their proximity to several Native American reservations. Established in 1953 at Luke Air Force Base in Arizona, the Thunderbirds are one of the oldest air demonstration teams in the world.
This is the reference 1625 which replaced the earlier 63/6600 reference models launched in 1959, and remained in the line until its upgrading in 1977 to the 16250. Aesthetically there is very little difference to this model and the earlier versions. the markers on the dial moved from the arrow head to the more classic stick. However, the stick markers on these 1625 dials seem to be a little thicker than any regular Datejust model, and give a slightly bolder appearance. The pie pan dial remains, however by this time Rolex had moved away from Radium luminous material to the less radioactive Tritium. This can be seen by the "T Swiss T" marking at the base of the dial.
This example has the less common colored silver dial with yellow gold markers. The colour has a little more depth to it than a lot of silver dials. Perhaps that is due to the now nearly sixty year aging process. It is somewhat an antique silver in normal light. The black text printing and chapter ring stand out well from the silver, and has a very classic feel. These silver dials suit this watch a lot more than the gold dials that are more commonly found. The balance between the larger gold bezel and silver dial has a much more appealing overall feel.
All original lume plots are in tact as well as in the hands, and are not re-finished and have aged to a stunning deep latté colour. They respond the same to ultraviolet light, meaning they are original to each other. The same is true of the original baton hands.
The watch is powered by a Rolex, Swiss made, twenty six jewel automatic calibre 1570 movement that powered the majority of all Rolex models since its launch, from the Datejust to the Submariner. The caliber was introduced by Rolex in 1964, and was such a stalwart that it remained unchanged for thirteen years. Various different movements were developed from this caliber such as the 1575 for the GMT and the 1580 anti-magnetic for the Milgauss. These movements were also certified chronometer (COSC) movements. The beauty of this example is that its original COSC timing certificate accompanies the watch dates October 18th 1968.
The watch is fitted to its original Rolex Jubilee stainless steel and fourteen carat bracelet with the very attractive large coronet deployant bracelet which is remarkable condition having never been polished. These deployant buckles are perhaps the most attractive ones made by Rolex. Not only this, but in its original Rolex wax wrapped small envelope are original extra links for this bracelet. Exceptionally rare in themselves having never been worn. There is also a date stamping on the reverse side of the bracelet. It reads "6- 4". Knowing that this watch was made in the fourth quarter of 1968, it is quite possible that there was an error in the stamping and the 8 was struck as a '-' by mistake. An interesting additional element to this superb watch.
The watch was made circa 1968 with serial number 187XXXX. The watch is in original condition, lightly polished, but overall very strong. The bracelet and bezel appear to be unpolished. The bracelet has some sag, but not detrimental. The watch is a 'full set' example, which is very rare for a Thunderbird from this period. Not only that. The watch was incredibly well loved and maintained. It comes with three, possibly four, different sets of Rolex servicing in New York over its lifetime. This is exceptionally rare, and just like a vintage car that has had dealership servicing throughout its life, this adds value and pedigree to an already stunning example. It also comes with a Foundwell one year warranty against mechanical failure. A very good example in its own right, to find a complete version like this is a real bonus.