An extra large size stainless steel Angelus "Chronodato", triple date chronograph, manually wound wrist watch. This amazing watch, in spectacular condition, was quite the revolution when it hit the markets in the early 1940's. Not only were these a very large sized cased wristwatch for the time, they were also very complicated movements. The watch shows the day of the week, month and the month of the year along with a forty five minute chronograph measurement.
Initially launched in 1942 as the "Chronodate", the Chronodato came to be in 1943 and was quite a leap in Swiss watch making technical history.With the exception of a few non-production models made by Patek Philippe featuring a calendar in 1937 and perpetual calendar in 1941, this was the first time that the date appeared on a production chronograph wristwatch. As a result of this the model went on to become a huge success for the watch maker.
This particular example is also additionally special for having a personalised engraving into the watch case back. The case back is for Master Sergeant D. H Rudolph of the United States Air Force. Along with his name and rank is also his Air Force number. This makes sense as at the time watches like this, and the equally complicated Universal Tri-Compax, were very popular with aviators during World War Two. These models, as mentioned, were large and therefore easy to read at a glance. They have a large winding crown, enabling easier winding when wearing flight gloves, the ability to also use the chronograph feature was also key for bombing runs and such.
Not only is this an important and rare watch in stainless steel, the condition is also superb. The reason these watches are more rare in steel is due to the fact that complicated watches were costly in their own right, and therefore it made more retail sense to case them in solid gold. However, for tool, military use, a softer and more 'decorative' case would be redundant. As a result a number were also made in stainless steel. The watch dates to circa 1946/47 with a serial number in the very low 240XXX's. The double frame logo means that is cannot be earlier than this. But, meaning that it could well have seen action on the wrist of Airman Rudolph in the likes of the Berlin Airlift.
The case overall is superb. It is presented in an unpolished condition, with the early engraving in the back very legible, along with the Angelus logo and serial number. The lugs are clean and crisp and show no major wear or damage. There was never a metal bracelet put on this watch, so there is no rubbing from end link feet. It is a large size case in general, but given the lack of real bezel, it makes the dial appear so much larger.
Moving onto the dial, this is also spectacular. There is not efficient sealing on these early snap back cases, and so very often dials on watches like these show signs of damage form dirt and moisture. Or from careless servicing over the years. This is not the case with this dial. It is superb throughout. The original radium luminous material is also present on all of the Arabic numbers around the dial. The 45 minute register also has three interesting marking dashes picked out in red for timing three minute intervals more easily. The outer minute track is very clean, as are the date numbers that run outside it. These normally are the first to be affected by dirt and moisture.
Looking at the hands, they are all the original hands with the minute and hour being blued steel syringe style with luminous material filled in the center. It is possible that they have been re-lumed over the years, although it appears that, under UV light, they respond exactly the same as the lume on the dial. The date hand has a handsome red enamel triangle on its tip. Constant seconds and the 45 minute timing register hands are also original.
The watch is powered by the caliber 217. A chronograph with full calendar module attached to the same basic calibre as the earlier 215. This was made from 1942 onwards which included the date hand and windows for weekday and month. Both calibers have a balance cock without positioning stems. The hammer now has only the shape with “mouth” and a bent middle section for accessing the blocking lever. There were large movement retaining screws along with a new shape of pusher lever, with an indent near the crown for accessing the retaining screw. A beautiful looking movement, as can be seen from the pictures. Recently having undergone a full service, and working superbly.
Overall, this is a superb and quite rare watch. Not just an important model in the timeline of watch making history, but also an exceptionally handsome and wearable watch, even by today's larger case size driven market. The condition throughout is superb, and it is highly unlikely to come across a better looking example from this period. Add in the fact that this was a military worn aviators watch and it really makes this example one of the finest watches out there of its reference, and quite a special reference in its own right.
